Advanced Rock Climbers Exhibit Greater Finger Force And Resistance To Fatigue Compared To Novices During Treadwall Climbing

BackgroundThe purpose of the study was to investigate the effects of rock climbing experience on time to fatigue (TTF), finger flexor force production relative to body weight (REL FP), and changes in finger flexor muscle activity during tread wall climbing. MethodsEight advanced and seven novice sport rock climbers performed a climbing protocol on a treadwall system. The protocol consisted of climbing for six 5-minute intervals or until voluntary failure. A mounted force plate was used to measure finger force production before and after the climbing protocol. Subjects performed a 20-second maximum voluntary isometric contraction (MVIC) against the force plate with the dominant and non-dominant fingertips in a common climbing hand configuration known as a half crimp. Muscle activity was monitored with electromyographic electrodes placed bilaterally over the subjects flexor digitorum superficialis. Median frequency (MF) and root mean square (RMS) were analyzed. The treadwall was set at a difficulty of 9 IRCRA/5.9 YDS. It rotated at 7 m/min and was fixed at 7{degrees} overhanging. ResultsSignificant group differences were observed in subject characteristics, TTF (30{+/-}0 vs. 25.7{+/-}3.6 min), REL FP (5.6{+/-}1.2 vs. 3.2{+/-}0.9 N/kg BW), {Delta}FP (+1.5{+/-}12.3% vs. -31{+/-}16%), and {Delta}MF (+6.3{+/-}22.4% vs. -17.6{+/-}10.9%). ConclusionThe results of this study demonstrate that advanced climbers possess greater finger flexor force production and resistance to fatigue compared to novices during bouts of climbing on a treadwall system. This may be attributed to physiological changes due to years of training, such as metabolic adaptations and oxygenation capacity in the forearm musculature.